Cairistiona

By Cairistiona1

Haggis.

The origins of haggis go well back into history. It has been argued that it may have origins in Scandinavia, but it has also been suggested that a similar dish was prepared in Ancient Greece. It is however likely, that it was originally a food prepared by the poor on the rare occasions that they were able to get a hold of the required offal. However, by the nineteenth century the humble haggis began to take on a new significance. At this time Sir Walter Scot was prominent in the move to "create" a new form of Scottish identity. Indeed he was at the forefront of attempts to promote the modern kilt as the main item of Scottish national dress. Not surprisingly then, we find that he was also involved in the advancing the interests of the humble haggis!

"The choice of the haggis as the supreme national dish of Scotland is very fitting. It is testimony to the national gift of making the most of small means; for in the haggis we have concocted from humble, even despised ingredients, a veritable plat de gourmet.... Further, it is a thoroughly democratic dish, equally available and equally honoured in castle, farm and croft. Finally, the use of the paunch of the animal as the receptacle for the ingredients gives that touch of romantic barbarism so dear to the Scottish heart."

Meg Dod's Genuine Scotch Haggis

"The exact formula by which the Prize Haggis was prepared at the famous competition of Haggisses held in Edinburgh, when the Cleikum Haggis carried the stakes, and that of Christopher North came in second. - Meg Dods."

"Clean a sheep's pluck thoroughly. Make incisions in the heart and liver to allow the blood to flow out, and par boil the whole, letting the windpipe lie over the side of the pot to permit the discharge of impurities; the water may be changed after a few minutes' boiling for fresh water. A half hours' boiling will be sufficient; but throw back the half of the liver to boil till it will grate easily; take the heart, the half of the liver, and part of the lights, trimming away all skins and black-looking parts, and mince them together. Mince also a pound of good beef-suet and four or more onions. Grate the other half of the liver. Have a dozen of small onions peeled and scalded in two waters to mix with this mince. Have ready some finely-ground oatmeal, toasted slowly before the fire for hours, till it is of a light brown colour and perfectly dry. Less than two teacupfuls of meal will do for this quantity of meat. Spread the mince on a board and strew the meal lightly over it, with a high seasoning of pepper, salt and a little cayenne, first well mixed. Have a haggis bag (i.e. a sheep's paunch) perfectly clean, and see that there be no thin part in it, else your whole labour will be lost by its bursting.

Some cooks use two bags, one as an outer case. Put in the meat with half a pint of good beef gravy, or as much strong broth as will make it a very thick stew. Be careful not to fill the bag too full, but allow the meat room to swell; add the juice of a lemon or a little good vinegar; press out the air and sew up the bag, prick it with a large needle when it first swells in the pot to prevent bursting; let it boil slowly for three hours if large."

From The Scots Kitchen, its traditions and lores, FM McNeill (First printed 1929, 1948 reprint).

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