Sue in Tiananmen Square. Yes! We wiz there!

Set off early this morning with good intentions, heading for the Forbidden City, on foot. Fought off several trishaw drivers wanting to take us to Tiananmen Square, beyond the FC. Hence we fell into the friendly clutches of one David Yang, a teacher of calligraphy and art, and a working artist. He put his name and contact details on a sheet of "rice" paper then painted a classical Chinese subject, the Plumb Blossom. To this he added our names and a story of how we met etc. etc. Meanwhile we were browsing through his work. Lots of typical Chinese art studies - all students learn to paint these - then one painting in a modern idiom emerged from the pile. We bought it and another more stylised design for a fan.

Off we went then to the FC. As we approached the entry area, a guide offered her services, @ £40. We declined this and further offers, until we saw the queues for tickets, at which point we engaged the services of another girl guide, at £20. Guides can get tickets in a matter of a few minutes so we were into the complex quickly and running in to the masses of tourists already there. These are by far mainly Chinese, with the attendant total disregard for personal space. In other words, it was a total scrum to get anywhere near the entrys to the many and various buildings. Problem is that you cannot enter the buildings but instead have to fight your way to the front of the crush at each viewing point, point your camera and hope. In truth the whole experience was disappointing until we finished with our guide and were then free to wander around the lesser buildings and peer through dirty glass windows at the deteriorating interiors. Some wee gems of furniture and ornaments could be seen here & there, but again a poor way of showing the country's heritage to an eager public.

Escaped from there and had a bite at a tiny hole in the wall restaurant, and made our way to Tiananmen Square where we took a few photos, trying to capture the essence of the student uprising, which proved impossible, partly due to the positioning of two enormous panoramic TV screens, and of course partly to the presence of so many people. Glad we went there today however as tomorrow, and Sunday, are public holidays in the approach to Labour Day.

Headed off towards the Temple of heaven when we were waylaid by a couple of lads in their early 20s who wanted to practice their English. They were also final year art students who just happened to be having an exhibition of their work in a nearby studio. Off we went with the promise that they were not trying to sell anything. They didn't need to. The work of one was absolutely splendid, and we came away with yet another painting. This of the walls of the Forbidden City, painted in a perspective which shows the vanishing point to always face you, wherever your viewing point. Had seen this before in a gallery at the Big Wild Goose Pagoda in Xi'an but could not afford it. Now we were purchasing from the artist, at a fraction of the cost, simply because he is still a student. Kicking myself now for not getting a photograph of him with the painting before it was packaged for it's journey home.

Most Chinese art work bears a couple of red stamps, one of which identifies the artist but because this is by a student, that does not happen. Shame, as it will affect the value in future if/when this guy becomes famous, as he says he will.

Back to our huton & hotel by motorcycle Trishaw, facing backwards. Just as well as it was by then rush hour. Arghhhh!

Had seriously considered going to a Peking Opera show. The inclusion of the word "show" had suggested caution, and a few words with a Dutch couple in our courtyary confirmed our fears. We aren't going. We experienced a sample of the singing style when we were at the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra concert and that was tempered by the accompanying western music, so no cultural loss by not going here.

Dined on a couple of delicious dishes tonight, presented in a very modern manner. Mine was only let down a tad by the inclusion of the chicken's bones. Oh why can't they be removed?

Going to try for the Summer Palace tomorrow, via a 2 change route on the Metro, and avoiding all sales traps. Pray for us please!