Looks Good To Me

By Pilipo

Hi-tech, Low-tech

I think the hardest part of working with live edge wood is removing the bark without damaging the smooth contours of the wood underneath. The outer layer often peels off fairly easily, but the soft inner layer is more tenacious. Andrew Vallee of Smith and Vallee Woodworks, where I bought the maple slab for my coffee table project, recommended using the nylon brushes in the photo. They're used with an electric drill.

I thought I should practice on something smaller -- and less expensive -- than the big slab. A thin slice off my apple log was ideal for this. After a little experimentation I found a technique that worked quite well. First I removed the bark and most of the inner layer using a flexible spatula loaned to me by Cynthia. It belonged to her mother, and is over 50 years old. I then used the  80-grit brush to get down to the bare wood.

Cutting into a thick piece of wood often releases interior stresses, which can cause warping. It's advisable to allow a few days to elapse before milling the material to final dimensions. This little piece has warped so much that it might be too thin to be useful by the time it's machined flat, but I'm hoping it will serve as a small cheese board.

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