La salida

Today marks departure day from South America. The brilliance must come to an end and reality beckons.

I let Colonia early in the morning to reach Montevideo, but saddled with baggage, I couldn't do much more than loiter in the coach station before jumping on a bus to the airport. Someone was listening to The Climb by Miley Cyrus whenever the engine quietened.

Iberia had overbooked so asked whether I would stay another night, with compensation. Sorely tempted to claw back some of the cost of this trip, diligence prevailed and I boarded in order to get back to work on time. Iberia seems a decent airline although they choose unrealistically good-looking people for their safety videos and those people display more glee and teeth than seem necessary for helping a child fix an oxygen mask. They announce that flight statistics for 2016 and 2017 confirm them as the world's most punctual airline.

It's interesting to try and sum up Uruguay. The progressive government and society of this little rump country would surprise many outsiders, who at a push may be able to link it to steak and cowboys lassoing horses on ranches.

Montevideo is highly liveable, assuming the salaries would be high enough to cover the sting of food and drink costs, which seem well taxed. It's been deemed the third most resistant country in the world to climate change due to geo-physical factors and the potential for renewable energy.

It's had a history of socialist governments with minimal corruption and based on the policies introduced, has displayed an impressive decoupling of state and religion. Even though church attendance may be poor, half of the country identifies as Roman Catholic.

Abortion is legal, the birth rate is the lowest on the continent and Uruguay has been rated the tenth best country in the world for LGBT rights. Ten years ago, gays were allowed to join the military and transsexuals could change their registered gender. Gay couples can adopt children (since 2009), marry (2013 - ahead of the UK) and are protected by anti-discrimination laws (2008).

Uruguay has some of the world's laxest laws around marijuana consumption, which I am personally ambivalent about, yet this represents radical thinking compared to most places. It smells like the population has embraced this policy with gusto.

Until 2015 Uruguay had the famously non-materialistic 'poor president', José Mujica, who shunned a lavish lifestyle, lived on a simple farm outside Montevideo, and donated 90% of his salary.

One of Uruguay's largest challenges appears to be the availability of hard cash, as there is a low daily limit on bank withdrawals of Uruguayan pesos. Card payments are promoted as an option, with VAT reductions for using this method. The economy doesn't seem quite sure of its relationship with the US dollar, as it's not listed as an official currency, yet can be withdrawn at ATMs.

All things considered, sería muy lindo vivir en Uruguay (it would be very nice to live in Uruguay).