Madeiran geranium

Today we had a beautiful guided walk along a former irrigation channel to a village called Rochao, near Camacha, in the south east of Madeira. Although it must sound strange (walking a water channel) these channels run all over Madeira from North to South and have wide paths alongside them that have been developed as well- signposted hiking trails. Tourism is big business in Madeira.

Our levada/irrigation channel no longer had running water in it, because it was an older one, made in 1906 and now supersdeded by a newer model. We walked through a shady wooded area on the side of a hill for most of the way, surrounded by a great variety of vegetation and flora. We also saw a firecrest, Madeira's smallest bird. There was also the surprising sight of a vast concrete wall, a fortress in the forest which forms part of a football stadium where a local team practise, lost in the clouds sometimes.

We must have been high in the mountains, because when I got out of our minibus and started walking, I felt lightheaded as soon as we stopped for information from our guide. Fortunately the moment passed almost immediately with no repetitions.

The area, although woodland, was also inhabited, with some houses that had very steep forested approaches. We stopped for coffee at a cafe in Camacha, then carried on to Rochao, where our minibus picked us up again. The whole event took about 3 hours, with just 7km of walking along level pathways, skirting around hillsides looking into valleys below. The guide was friendly and knowledgeable, and spoke English and German as well as Portuguese. I think there were more Germans than English speakers on our trip, and no Portuguese.

Camacha has a wicker factory, but it's been closed since the pandemic began. I think this factory was the largest employer in the area, and some people have had to leave the town as a result.

We were dropped back at our hotel at lunchtime, and some time later I hatched a plan to go to the Monte Palace gardens, (the weather was still overcast, a bit cooler than previous days) but by the time we'd found the bus stop, hours had passed and there wasn't a bus for another half hour. We decided to have a soft drink instead, and then walk out on one of the concrete piers in the main harbour. We seated ourselves on the end, overlooking a little shingle beach where some people were swimming in the ocean, and listened to the waves breaking. I read my book, while the sun emerged and GG sunbathed.

Next, we walked to the Workers' Market, which is in a tiled market hall. GG hadn't been there yet. I had popped in previously, but not explored thoroughly. We combed the whole hall, upstairs and down, though I never did find the knife- sharpener, which was disappointing. Perhaps we were too late. GG bought some leather goods and I bought a little cake for D and some flower seeds for CleanSteve.

Then we wended our way back through the narrow streets, booked a table for dinner, went to the hotel and I sat in the garden while GG dozed upstairs. Dinner was not spectacular because GG had ordered "beef on the laurel skewer" and I tuna steak, but the food was a long time coming and then GG couldn't get it off the skewer easily, because her hand is still not right. Then she wanted mustard, and that took ages too...

Eventually we left after having waited ages to pay, but we were too cold to go back to GG's music bar under the jacaranda. I think the waiting really made her cross, and the fact that we were not given top tourist status because we are not huge eaters. I was happy with my food, though.