Jamjaragain

By Jamjar

Fi didn't like the look of Quayfoot Buttress *VD, it was wet, so I stupidly said I'd do it. I couldn't do the awkward crux move on wet rock and with no gear, so I decided to go up the gully to the right, which was very vegetated... so I gardened as I went up, throwing chunks of moss down to reveal desperately needed hand and footholds.

We swapped over on the (wet and muddy) ledge and Fi went up the next gully, again with very little protection. She eventually reached the next ledge and I followed with difficulty. We were sorting gear out when a young man popped his head up out of the gully and asked if he could overtake us as he had a shift starting at the hostel at 1pm. He was obviously a very good climber, soloing and making it look easy! 

We both had a go at the next bit, but came to our senses and decided to abseil off. Luckily there was a big enough tree on both ledges or we'd have had to lose gear and it would've been awkward. As it was, all we lost was a number 4 nut and a maillon, crag swag for someone. 

Lessons learned:-
1. Do not climb on wet, greasy rock.
2. Carry 2 prussic loops in case you drop one... we didn't. 
3. Do not climb routes with hardly any protection. 
4. Gardening should be saved for home.
5. Do not assume you'll be able to get down.
6. Follow your instincts.
7. Do not climb on wet, greasy rock!!!

Extra: lovely light at the campsite 

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